“Thousands of tired, nerve-shaken, over-civilized people are beginning to find out going to the mountains is going home; that wilderness is a necessity.” – John Muir
Snow-caked peaks towering over emeraldine waters and shale monuments angling above evergreen woods: that’s how I pictured the Canadian Rockies, and it delivered and exceeded every expectation I had.
Per tradition for the Fourth of July week, marking our wedding anniversary, we visited national parks once again. The only difference this time is that we veered out of the country to visit the natural wonders of our neighbors to the north. This trip to the Canadian Rockies focused primarily on Banff and Jasper National Parks, with brief stops in Yoho and Kootenay, simply because the four parks are adjacent to one another. We took our two small children, ages 1.5 and 4, with us, and they couldn’t get enough of the wildlife sightings, nature walks, or being ported around by backpack and gondola for more scenic views. I was grateful to have included them in our annual tradition, cultivating in them love and appreciation for nature. Here’s what we did together to create memorable experiences that will last us a lifetime.
Download the complete itinerary here
Logistics
To maximize our time in each park, we flew into Edmonton, drove to Jasper National Park and spent two days there before spending the remainder of the week in Banff National Park. There, we used Lake Louise as our hub. On our last day in the parks, we stopped in the town of Banff for lunch before heading on to Calgary for a night. (Similar to how we handled the trip to Grand Teton and Yellowstone).
Is Jasper worth it? Most definitely. It’s a less crowded park, has tons of wildlife and idyllic scenery, and is so close to Banff that if you’re in the area for more than three days, it should be on your itinerary. As part of your visit, you’re bound to drive the Icefield Parkway that connects the two parks anyway, so you might as well spend a little extra time to soak up the serenity of Jasper.
1. Spotting wildlife near waterways
As a wildlife enthusiast, one of the most thrilling parts of this trip was looking for wildlife. As usual, I had my eyes peeled for grizzlies, but once again, did not manage spot one on this trip. I would scan the roadsides and tree lines for that distinct shoulder hump, but in the end every dark figure shrouded in the bushes turned out to be an overturned log or boulder. However, we were lucky to have seen 12 black bears, a bull moose, mountain goats, elk and bighorn sheep, so I’d say wildlife viewing was a success. Jasper offered more variety of animals than Banff or any other park I have visited.
Where did we see these animals?
- Near Maligne Lake (black bears, elk including stag, and moose, at dusk) in Jasper National Park
- Bow Valley Parkway between Banff and Kootenay National Parks (black bears, bighorn sheep)
- Driving along Route 16, just East of Jasper (mountain goats, elk including stag)
Related: From Teton to Tongass: How I Spent A Summer Spent Searching for Bears
2. Hiking in the wilderness
…with bear spray of course. This was actually harder to do in reality with two small children. My daughter would either want snacks, get tired or need breaks at inopportune moments, and my son was just too heavy to port around comfortably in the over-the-shoulder carrier, (trust me, I’ve tried a few brands now), though he enjoyed it. Truthfully, we only managed brief trails around Maligne Canyon, a little beyond the first lake for the Valley of Five Lakes in Jasper, and the walk up to the Athabasca Glacier at the Columbia Icefield off of the Icefield Parkway. We also did the steep but short path up to the Peyto Lake viewpoint, on which was completely worth it despite having to push a double stroller.
In Banff, we walked the flat path along the Bow Valley Loop, and were able to see the distinct point where the Pipestone River and Bow River merge, bringing glacial and non-glacial water into one.
3. Posing for pics near waterfalls
Proximity to icefields and glaciers means waterfalls are in full force, especially in the summer. In the Canadian Rockies, this manifests not only in the deafening torrents of Athabasca and Suntawpa Falls, but also the churning cascades that have carved polished potholes into centuries-old slot canyons. I thought I had never seen anything like it until my husband reminded me that Antelope Canyon has a similar form, created through flash flooding rather than seasonal glacial surges.
Unlike those waterfalls, Takakkaw Falls in Yoho is a soaring chute that looks like Yosemite Falls, but less than half its height. Sourced from the meltwater of the Daly Glacier, the falls are visible from the road and parking lot leading to it, but the path to see it plummet into the Yoho River is flat and short, so it’s worth the easy walk up, even with children.
4. Walking on (or up to) the Athabasca Glacier
The Columbia Icefield and its glaciers are among the few vestiges of the “Little Ice Age,” a period of regional cooling when Canadian glacial advancement reached a peak between 1840-1860. Today, the icefield ranges in depth from 100-365 meters, making it just deep enough to bury the Empire State Building. Along the Icefield Parkway, visitors have a chance to take the short trail up to the glacial melting point (for free) or purchase tickets to ride a hefty ice explorer on to the glacier. The latter typically includes access to the Jasper Skywalk, a glass-bottom walkway suspended 918-feet above the rugged Suntwapa Canyon in the neighboring Jasper National Park.
5. Canoeing Emerald Lake
Slicing that canoe paddle through Emerald Lake’s cool waters was one of the most calming moments I experienced during our trip. My daughter and I rented a canoe for an hour, paddled to the center of the lake. We sat there for some time to hear the sounds of nature. The soft lapping of water against the canoe and buzz of insects on the lake banks drown out tourist chatter along the shoreline.
The canoe shack opens at 10 a.m. and canoes can be rented in one-hour increments.
6. Riding the gondola up Sulphur Mountain
They say that the Banff Gondola is one of best and safest ways to see grizzlies on the mountainside–I disagree. We didn’t see any animals while riding the gondola, and I don’t see how that is possible given how short the ride is. However, the view from the top of Sulphur Mountain is scenic, and were excited by the ride up.
7. Catching the sunrise at Lake Louise
Milky teal waters reveal their colors as the sun rises over Lake Louise at dawn. Head over before 7 a.m., before the parking lot gets full of tour buses.
The glitzy Fairmont Chateau at Lake Louise is one of the most iconic accommodations in the park. Access inside is limited to hotel guests, but it’s possible to grab a hot beverage at Guide’s Pantry before grabbing a seat on one of the chilly rocks bordering the lake. Then, sit back, sip up, and watch the colors spring to life.
8. Shopping in the town of Banff (and Canmore)
I usually don’t care for touristy towns with their knick-knacks and the cloying smell of fudge that wafts through the streets, but the town of Banff is pretty charming. It is filled with plenty of good restaurants of varying cuisines, from Tex-Mex, to Indian and bar food to fine dining. The main avenue in the town is lined with souvenir shops, art galleries and places to pick up sweet treats and savory snacks. The town is where we ended up buying everyone in our family tasteful gifts handcrafted by local artisan at Freya’s Gifts, Jewelry and Currency Exchange.
Towards the end of our trip as we drove to Calgary, we also stopped at the galleries and book stores of Canmore, purchasing some art to decorate our wall at home.
With mementos purchased, we wrapped up our vacation to the Canadian Rockies. The memories (and photos) of all that we experienced have left a lasting impression!
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