Each year, six million people flock to the wiesn to partake in Munich’s Oktoberfest, the world’s largest beerfest, where an average of 1.8 million gallons of specially crafted beers are carted in by the barrel into 17 tents. Given that the beer is served in one-liter mugs, I suppose that level of consumption is no surprise.
What’s ironic though is that the festival that started as a celebratory return to regional traditions and a reinstatement of Bavarian emperors by Napoleon, seems only to have kept intact the costumes and festive atmosphere.
It was an agricultural festival to celebrate King Ludwig’s marriage to Princess Therese of Saxon in 1810. People were encouraged to wear their regional garb, and for many years, the main event was actually horse racing. You wouldn’t know it from the festival today.
To appreciate the Bavarian history and culture requires venturing beyond the wiesn, or meadow where Oktoberfest takes place, through the streets of Munich, to the seat of the Bavarian rulers, the palace grounds at Nymphenburg and the Bavarian countryside.
Munich
Walk through the Marienplatz
Start at the Marienplatz, the city’s iconic center dating back to medieval times. The city’s main streets converged in this square. Originally named the “grain market,” the square was renamed after Bavaria’s patron saint, St. Mary, honored with a column in the center of the square to mark the end of Swedish occupation in 1638.
Buy Bread and Produce at the Victuals Market
A bouquet of aromas greet you in this open-air market that has been in operation every single day since 1807, except on Sunday and holidays. When the grain market was too large to be contained in Marientplatz alone, farmers’ stalls spilled over to create this Victuals Market nearby.
From the smell of freshly baked bread wafting from the stalls, to the fragrant orbs of alliums and asters on vibrant display in the stands, the Victuals Market invites you to smell, taste, and shop. It was our first stop for breakfast one morning. We were overwhelmed by the number of baguettes, rolls and loaves filling the bakeries, but managed to select a few croissants for the kids as we sipped coffee.
Vendors let us sample fresh berries along the way and we selected a basket for our son.
Visit the Residenz Museum & Treasury
Residenz is the former royal palace of the Bavarian monarchs. Travel back in time to an era of grandeur as you walk the gilded halls and intricately adorned chambers, a mark of exquisite craftsmanship and timeless elegance.
Unfortunately, I was not able to visit inside the museum fully because I was solo-parenting for the day and strollers were discouraged, given the number of stairs throughout the museum. But from what I could tell from peeking inside, the architecture and sculptures were quite elaborate.
Stroll the sprawling Nymphenburg Palace & Gardens
Talk about a push present! Bavarian Elector Ferdinand Maria gifted the grounds of the Nymphenburg Palace to his wife, Henriette Adelaide, upon the long awaited birth of a Bavarian heir, their son, Max Emanuel.
Eventually, the palace and gardens became the summer home for the Bavarian electors with hunting grounds, swimming pool and chambers for the rulers and their guests to stay.
Füssen
The idyllic mountain town of Füssen is aptly named – whether in reference to its
Latin roots referring to its location at the base of the Alps or it being situated at the mouth of the Lech gorge. This is one of the closest towns to the castle region of Bavaria and sits in a picturesque valley.
Lech Gorge
Waterfalls tumble down the sheer rock faces of the Lech Gorge, which has been carved over millennia by the relentless force of the Lech River. These dramatic geological features create a stunning backdrop for hiking and exploration, offering breathtaking vistas at every turn.
Outdoor enthusiasts will appreciate this glimpse into the raw power and beauty of nature along the Alpine mountainside. Within the banking wilderness, lofty pine trees create a vibrant tapestry of color and texture, while providing shelter for deer, foxes, and a myriad of bird species in the area.
Behold the Dreamland of the Swan King
To me, one of the most interesting parts of this region was learning about the history and life of its Bavarian emperors.
On the flight over to Germany, I listened to some podcast episodes about Ludwig II to fully understand the mystery behind the eccentric Bavarian ruler’s obsession with beauty.
Neuschwanstein Castle, the inspiration for the Disney Sleeping Beauty castle, was the vision of Ludwig II, the “Swan King,” who was considered to be insane and ousted from rule just days before his mysterious death. In reality, he was a visionary, who would have much rather spent his days at the opera than the daily drone of his political duties, and sure, he was eccentric. Though the building of this extravagant castle drove the king into personal debt (he didn’t spend the people’s money to build it), today it serves as a huge tourism cash machine for the government.
Benedictine Monastery of St. Mang
Quaint cobblestone streets and charming pastel-colored buildings, create the serene beauty of the Benedictine Monastery of St. Mang.
Arcades and ornate frescoes adorn the walls. The hallowed halls of the monastery church house a trove of religious art and architecture, from intricately carved altars to luminous stained glass windows, each telling a story of faith and devotion spanning centuries.
Hohes Schloss
This “High Castle” is a fortress perched atop a rugged hilltop overlooking the town below. Here, amidst towering ramparts and imposing battlements, we are transported back in time to an era of knights and nobles, as we explore the castle’s rich history and marvel at its impressive architecture.
From imposing gatehouse to the serenity of its inner courtyards, Hohes Schloss offers a glimpse into the medieval past of Füssen, inviting us to immerse ourselves in its storied heritage and uncover the secrets of its ancient walls.
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