Check out my feature on Kerala’s backwaters, published in Lonely Planet’s “Joy of Quiet Places” coffee table book:
Like a pane of glass, the waters of Kumarakom stand motionless, reflecting the clouds above. Coconut trees peer over the more narrow waterways as if to catch their reflection in a mirror, only to have their view obstructed by the overgrowth of water hyacinths that have flourished rampantly. A brilliant blue kingfisher swoops to break the water’s surface, catching a minnow between its beak.
This is God’s Own Country, where heaven and earth shake hands at the horizon.
I had probably visited India about 15 times at least before making it out to the tranquil backwaters of Kerala. It wasn’t until after marriage that I was able to soak up the serenity and appreciate an Indian culture different from the one in which I had been raised.
Like my husband’s family, many in this region practice Syro-Malabar Catholicism. This Roman Catholic sect, recognized by the Vatican, can be traced back to the group of people converted by St. Thomas the Apostle along India’s Malabar coast.
That’s why December is the best time to visit: not only is the weather in South India more temperate after the monsoons, but there is an animated atmosphere, as illuminated Christmas stars adorn the doorways of most storefronts and homes.
Don’t Miss
- Spending an overnight stay on a houseboat
- Birdwatching in Kumarakom
- Savoring Malabar cuisine
- Sipping tender coconut water from a riverside vendor
- Trying the local toddy
- Scoping out wildlife at the nearby Thekkady Wildlife Reserve
- Touring the tea estates in nearby Munnar
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