The swoosh of frothy waves and the buzz from a melding of cultures create a soundtrack for the U.S. territory of Puerto Rico — outside of salsa and reggaeton, of course.
Though its rainbow facades, amalgam of Taino, Spanish and African influences, and backdrop of cerulean seas give the impression of it being a remote country, this U.S. territory delivers the convenience and access of a domestic destination. It’s the ideal weekend escape for families looking for an easy getaway.
That was the case for us last Memorial Day Weekend. We hadn’t yet applied for my infant son’s passport but were eager for a change of scenery. Torn between the U.S. Virgin Islands and PR, we landed on the latter since we felt the multi-cultural influences and historic sites would offer more versatility of attractions for a four-day weekend (airfares were comparable for the two). It was a simple trip, but I look back at it fondly because I enjoyed witnessing my kids’ enthusiasm for travel and new experiences. I wholly recommend PR to any family looking for a breezy overseas trip that kids will enjoy too.
Where to Stay
Hotels near Old San Juan are the place to be. They are typically waterfront and surrounded by ample restaurants of different cuisines. You can walk to them or order food to your room or poolside, which we did one night. Proximity to historic sites in the Old Town make it a short, inexpensive Uber ride over to the key sites as well (~5 minutes by car).
We stayed at the Condado Plaza Hilton. The glowing lobby, plush beachfront deck, and bauble-draped mezzanine atrium give this hotel a modern look even though we could tell from certain finishes that this was an older building. Still, the kids couldn’t get enough of the saltwater fish tank in the lobby or the pool’s tower-shaped water slide. Adults will favor the lobby floor’s billiard table and the pool’s swim-up bar and seaside views.
In our room, floor-to-ceiling windows opened up to a balcony facing the waterfront, giving us a daily dose of the tropical breeze we had been craving. A car rental facility adjacent to the hotel came in handy, too, since we rented a vehicle to explore other parts of the island on Days 2 and 3.
What to do
Day 1: Explore Old San Juan on Foot
Like so many other Caribbean destinations, Puerto Rico flaunts the multicolor edifices in its old historic district. Stroll through the narrow streets, rainbow buildings and elegantly architected squares. Sit down for a quick lunch at Caficultura where your meal can be either substantial or refreshing and light based on what you choose. Cool, freshly squeezed juices are an excellent way to hydrate after walking the streets in the heat.
There are no ordinary doorways here: Awnings, double doors and balconies are adorned with elaborate door knockers, archways of azulejos, towards the city wall viewpoint for views of the wind-whipped Caribbean Sea.
My daughter loved skipping over the old cobbled roads past the pastel painted buildings and Moorish Mozaic tiles that hinted of the island’s Islamic community. With the arrival of the Spanish in the late 15th century, also came Moorish descendants and enslaved Africans, who shaped the island’s music, food, and architectural design.
Symbols of Muslim influence are seen along the Calle de Forteleza which leads to the governor’s mansion. Though the road may be blocked at times, there are usually some interesting streamers hanging from the buildings at different times of the year that make this an interesting backdrop for photos.
It was a sultry afternoon, so we headed back to our hotel by Uber to cool off, only to return to the historic district for an Italian dinner at Sofia’s in the evening.
Day 2: Hike the El Yunque Forest
It takes less than an hour to drive to the El Yunque National Forest, a tropical rainforest on the northeast part of the island, which supplies half of the water for greater San Juan. You pass the countryside and less touristy parts of the island along the way.
Visitors must reserve a park pass in advance, as the park limits guest access to avoid congestion. We didn’t realize this, so we parked at the visitors center which doesn’t require the pass, but is an impressive structure in its own right.
The visitors center, known as “El Portal,” was reconstructed after destruction from Hurricanes Irma and Maria, is a pretty impressive green building, with its main hall serving as a rainwater collection system, hosting educational displays for kids, and serving as the starting point for a wheelchair accessible/stroller- friendly interpretive trail.
Flora similar to what I had come across in the Garden of the Sleeping Giant in Fiji, flourished along the sides of the trail.
It was lunchtime by the time we were heading out of the park, and we came across the El Yunque Rainforest Cafe. From the outside, I thought this was a Thai restaurant, but when we entered, we found that it was serving traditional Puerto Rican fare– and many vegetarian variations to boot! I was so impressed with their menu, which allowed me to experience the local flavors without worrying about the ingredients. Their vegetarian take on mofongo tasted like our South Indian delicacy, bisibele bath!
After lunch, we headed back towards Old San Juan to spend the late afternoon walking the Princessa Promenade before sunset.
The outdoor market by the promenade is a great place to shop locally made crafts. While we were shopping, the kids enjoyed scampering through the children’s playground nearby.
Day 3: Drive south to Ponce
Sunlight glints off the chrome of a 1931 Plymouth, parked ostentatiously near the Plaza Degetau in Ponce, Puerto Rico’s second most populated city. Consider these automobiles symbols of the territory’s commitment to supporting and celebrating American-manufactured goods, displayed prominently through the streets.
On day three, we drove south about two hours from San Juan through smaller towns and rolling hills to get to this seaside town. Along the way we stopped at Puerto Rico’s largest indoor arena, the Coliseum and the University of Puerto Rico.
The historic Hotel Melia, where Balearas restaurant was located, felt like a time capsule, with vintage elevators and ornate decor. The hotel is the oldest continuously operating hotel on the island. The restaurant itself was a study in elegance, with white linen tablecloths and crystal chandeliers. The food was a feast for the senses, with each dish exuding a unique blend of flavors and textures.
By the time we were back in the main square after lunch, live music was pulsing in the streets. It felt like a movie moment – we actually stopped and danced.
The tour of the Serrales Castle, the family mansion of the makers of famous DonQ rum, was envy-inducing, providing a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the wealthy sugar barons of the past. The opulent furnishings and the ornate architecture spoke of a bygone era.
Not far from the mansion is the the Cruz del Vigia, a tower housing a tourist center and offering 360-degree views from the vista.
Day 4: Tour Castillo San Felipe del Morro
The thick walls of the Castillo San Felipe del Morro fort loom above the town of Old San Juan, keeping a watchful eye over its coastline. Its name, literally referring to a high point of land extending into a body of water, was given by the Spanish, who took 250 years to build the formidable fortress through years of occupation and conflict. Puerto Rico, as the first major island with freshwater for ships sailing from Europe became a major defensive bastion for the Spanish, so much so that King Carlos III named it a “Defense of the First Order” during his role.
Del Morro helped the Spanish keep Portuguese, Dutch and English invasions at bay during the 16th to 18th centuries. Once Puerto Rico became a U.S territory (handed over after the Spanish-American War), this citadel served us in World War II as well, as a U.S. bunker and watch tower to look out for German submarines. Today, it’s a landmark of the island’s colonial history. This was one of the most interesting forts I’ve visited, with lots of information and gorgeous Caribbean views.
Wish We’d Done It
The Mosquito Bioluminescent Bay at Vieques requires taking a short flight or ferry to Vieques. Given we were traveling with two small children(including one young infant), we skipped this experience, but Puerto Rico is one of few places in the world to witness the glowing phenomenon.
In the future, I would book the day pass to El Yunque so we can hike the jungles and access the waterfalls.
Finally, I would also reserve a seat at Marmalade in advance. This upscale restaurant in Old San Juan was highly rated, but when we showed up, they said they were only seating by reservation only. It’s probably for for the best since we were two small children.