The swoosh of frothy waves and the buzz from a melding of cultures create a soundtrack for the U.S. territory of Puerto Rico — outside of salsa and reggaeton, of course.
Though its rainbow facades, amalgam of Taino, Spanish and African influences, and backdrop of cerulean seas give the impression of it being a remote country, this U.S. territory delivers the convenience and access of a domestic destination. It’s the ideal long weekend escape for families looking for an easy getaway.
That was the case for us last Memorial Day Weekend. We hadn’t yet applied for my infant son’s passport but were eager for a change of scenery. Torn between the U.S. Virgin Islands and PR, we landed on the latter since we felt the multi-cultural influences and historic sites would offer more versatility of attractions for a four-day weekend (airfares were comparable for the two). It was a simple trip, but I look back at it fondly because I enjoyed witnessing my kids’ enthusiasm for travel and new experiences. I wholly recommend PR to any family looking for a breezy overseas trip.
Where to Stay
Hotels near Old San Juan are the place to be. In the Condado neighborhood, they are typically waterfront and surrounded by a number of restaurants of different cuisines. They are within walking distance if you’re trying to get your steps in, or they deliver to your room or poolside, which we opted for one night. Proximity to historic sites in the Old Town make this neighborhood a short, inexpensive Uber ride over to the key attractions as well (~5 minutes by car).
We stayed at the Condado Plaza Hilton. The glowing lobby, plush beachfront deck, and bauble-draped mezzanine atrium give this hotel a modern look even though we could tell from certain finishes that this was an older building. Still, the kids couldn’t get enough of the saltwater fish tank in the lobby or the pool’s tower-shaped water slide. Adults will favor the lobby floor’s billiard table and the pool’s swim-up bar and seaside views.
In our room, floor-to-ceiling windows opened up to a balcony facing the waterfront, giving us a daily dose of the tropical breeze we had been craving. A car rental facility adjacent to the hotel came in handy, too, since we rented a vehicle to explore other parts of the island on Days 2 and 3.
What to do
Day 1: Explore Old San Juan on Foot
Like so many other Caribbean destinations, Puerto Rico flaunts the multicolor edifices in its old historic district. Stroll through the narrow streets, rainbow buildings and elegantly architected squares. Sit down for a quick lunch at Caficultura, which not only offers light bites but substantial entrees. I ordered a hummus platter to share and a vegetarian quesadilla, which was stuffed to the extent that it was more like a burrito. I couldn’t finish it. For something a bit more refreshing, cool squeezed juices are an excellent way to hydrate after walking the streets in the heat.
There are no ordinary doorways here: Awnings, double doors and balconies are adorned with elaborate door knockers, archways of azulejos. Head towards the city wall viewpoint for views of the wind-whipped sea.
My daughter loved skipping over the old cobbled streets past the pastel buildings and Moorish Mozaic tiles that hinted of the island’s Islamic community. We learned that with the arrival of the Spanish in the late 15th century, also came Moorish descendants and enslaved Africans, who shaped the island’s music, food, and architectural design.
Symbols of Muslim influence are seen along the Calle de Forteleza which leads to the governor’s mansion. Though the road may be blocked at times, there are usually some interesting streamers hanging from the buildings at different times of the year that make this an interesting backdrop for photos.
It was a sultry afternoon, so we headed back to our hotel by Uber to cool off, only to return to the historic district for an Italian dinner at Sofia’s in the evening.
It was that evening, while we shopping for souvenirs, that my daughter spotted a street vendor and insisted on getting photos holding his exotic birds. The line to get photos with the birds was long. I thought she would get impatient, back down at the last minute after seeing the sharp beaks up close, or choose to hold a parakeet. Instead, when the moment came, she chose the largest birds , even grabbing a peck on the cheek from one. I was stunned at her boldness, but also at her resolve to voice and get what she wanted. The smile on her face afterwards was worth every penny we paid.
Day 2: Hike the El Yunque Forest
It takes less than an hour to drive to the El Yunque National Forest, a tropical rainforest on the northeast part of the island, which supplies half of the water for greater San Juan. El Yunque’s chutes are its most popular attractions. You pass the countryside and less touristy parts of the island along the way.
Visitors must reserve a park pass in advance, as the park limits guest access to avoid congestion. We didn’t realize this, so we parked at the visitors center, which doesn’t require the pass, but is an impressive structure in its own right.
The visitors center, known as “El Portal,” was reconstructed after destruction from Hurricanes Irma and Maria, is a pretty impressive green building, with its main hall serving as a rainwater collection system, hosting educational displays for kids, and serving as the starting point for a wheelchair accessible/stroller- friendly interpretive trail.
Flora similar to what I had come across in the Garden of the Sleeping Giant in Fiji, flourished along the sides of the trail.
It was lunchtime by the time we were heading out of the park, and we came across the El Yunque Rainforest Cafe. From the outside, I thought this was a Thai restaurant, but when we entered, we found that it was serving traditional Puerto Rican fare– and many vegetarian variations to boot! I was so impressed with their menu, which allowed me to experience the local flavors without worrying about the ingredients. Their vegetarian take on mofongo tasted like our South Indian delicacy, bisibele bath!
After lunch, we headed back towards Old San Juan to spend the late afternoon walking the Princessa Promenade before sunset.
The outdoor market by the promenade is a great place to shop locally made crafts. While we were shopping, the kids scampered through the children’s playground nearby.
Day 3: Drive south to Ponce
Sunlight glints off the chrome of a 1931 Plymouth, parked ostentatiously near the Plaza Degetau in Ponce, Puerto Rico’s second most populated city. Consider these automobiles symbols of the territory’s commitment to supporting and celebrating American-manufactured goods, displayed prominently through the streets.
On day three, we drove south about two hours from San Juan through smaller towns and rolling hills to get to this seaside town. Along the way, we stopped at Puerto Rico’s largest indoor arena, the Coliseum, and the University of Puerto Rico.
Our destination? The Balearas restaurant in Ponce, located in the historic Hotel Melia. This hotel felt like a time capsule, with vintage elevators and ornate decor. The hotel is the oldest continuously operating hotel on the island. The restaurant itself was a study in elegance, crystal chandeliers twinkling overhead, an entire wall flaunting its collection, The menu here is inspired by a fusion of Mediterranean and Latin flavors, and vegetarian options included hummus and gazpacho starters (their idea of gazpacho is actually more of an avocado sauce), and a vegetarian paella with subtle flavors. I would normally never take my kids to such an upscale restaurant, but we were surprised to find the venue empty; we had the dining room to ourselves.
By the time we were back in the main square after lunch, live music was pulsing in the streets. It felt like a scene from a movie, and since my daughter started swaying to the beat, we seized the moment and stopped to dance. We had time to kill before our tour of the Serrales Castle.
Perched atop the town of Ponce is the sprawling estate of the Serrales Family, the founding makers of Don Q rum. Touring the Serrales Castle, which was built in the 1930s, was envy-inducing, providing a fascinating glimpse into the lives of the wealthy sugar barons of the past. The opulent furnishings and ornate architecture spoke of a bygone era. I was stunned to hear that the castle was valued at more than $17 million– but sold to the city of Ponce in 2001, including all of its furniture, for a nominal $400,000!
Not far from the mansion is the the Cruz del Vigia, a tower housing a tourist center and offering 360-degree views from the vista.
Day 4: Tour Castillo San Felipe del Morro
The thick walls of the Castillo San Felipe del Morro fort loom above the town of Old San Juan, keeping a watchful eye over its coastline. Its name, literally referring to a high point of land extending into a body of water, was given by the Spanish, who took 250 years to build the formidable fortress through years of occupation and conflict. Puerto Rico, as the first major island with freshwater for ships sailing from Europe became a major defensive bastion for the Spanish, so much so that King Carlos III named it a “Defense of the First Order” during his role.
Del Morro helped the Spanish keep Portuguese, Dutch and English invasions at bay during the 16th to 18th centuries. Once Puerto Rico became a U.S territory (handed over after the Spanish-American War), this citadel served us in World War II as well, as a U.S. bunker and watch tower to look out for German submarines. Today, it’s a landmark of the island’s colonial history. This was one of the most interesting forts I’ve visited, with lots of information and gorgeous Caribbean views.
Wish We’d Done It
The Mosquito Bioluminescent Bay at Vieques requires taking a short flight or ferry to Vieques. Given we were traveling with two small children(including one young infant), we skipped this experience, but Puerto Rico is one of few places in the world to witness the glowing phenomenon.
In the future, I would book the day pass to El Yunque so we can hike the jungles and access the waterfalls.
Finally, I would also reserve a seat at Marmalade in advance. This upscale restaurant in Old San Juan was highly rated, but when we showed up, they said they were only seating by reservation only. It’s probably for for the best since we were two small children.
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