How to Let the Good Times Roll in NOLA

Violet, emerald and gold tinsel garlands hang from the terraces of the French Quarter. Brassy notes from the marching band pierce a bourbon-infused haze while you are jostled by the crowd along the sticky streets that reek a blend of spirits and sweat.

Welcome to Mardi Gras in New Orleans.

If you were to ask me today, I would never (again) visit New Orleans during Mardi Gras week. I recall the trash strewn in the streets the morning after the parade, the masses hollering into the early morning hours, and the stench of liquor and clove cigarettes hanging stale in the air.

But that’s because now I am in my mid-thirties with two young children. In my twenties, with a group of amazing friends and B-school peers, all of that was tolerable, almost requisite, for spending a long weekend in NOLA for the Mardi Gras shenanigans. Festivals like these must be experienced at least once in a lifetime, especially with a group of friends who travel well together.

When I visited New Orleans in 2014 after having lived in Monroe, Louisiana in 2012, it was clear to see how the NOLA revelries were much more adult than the family-friendly festivities I had experienced in the twin cities. That’s not to say families don’t attend New Orleans Mardi Gras during the day, but it’s certainly a different vibe after-hours.

Within just a few days, we not only got to experience this carnival event in full form, but also experienced some of the iconic experiences that New Orleans had to offer. Here are highlights from what we felt made the most of a trip to New Orleans during Mardi Gras.

For Beginners: What is Mardi Gras?

Mardi Gras, which means “Fat Tuesday” in French, is celebrated by Christians (mostly Catholics) just before Ash Wednesday, which starts the more solemn 40 days of Lent. It’s a time to eat and drink abundantly, dress lavishly at balls and indulge in less-than-tasteful activities prior to the more sobering days of Lent, during which many Christians fast or abstain as an act of sacrifice and reflection. With the extravagance that takes place, it’s no wonder that masks and anonymity eventually became a part of the festival, so people could partake in the merriment freely. The three colors of the celebration—purple, green and gold– represent justice, faith, and power, respectively, according to Mardi Gras krewes. The krewes are the social organizations that are responsible for creating the parade floats and hosting Carnival balls.

Pace for the Parade

Trust me, it’s possible to miss the parade, especially if you arrive a day or two prior and have been consuming countless hurricanes in the French Quarter. Pace yourself so you can actually take in the sights and sounds of the main event. Mardi Gras floats are elaborate productions that cost tens of thousands to even millions of dollars to create and can hold hundreds of passengers. Lights, animatronics, choreographed dance numbers add to the fanfare. Sometimes, celebrities make an appearance, and multiple marching bands keep the throngs throbbing.

Take a Historic (or Haunted) Walking Tour of the French Quarter

On our second day in New Orleans, we went for a walking tour of the French Quarter, which ended by sunset.

We learned of how the buildings in the French quarter are actually mostly Spanish architecture, attributable to the fact that fires burned down many of the French buildings, and Louisiana was handed over to the Spanish in the second half of the 18th century as compensation for standing with the French and relinquishing Florida to Britain at the end of the Seven Years’ War. Once the Spanish took over, they used materials that could withstand fire.

Years later, when Jis and I would visit Charleston, I would find that much of the architecture, historical influences and themes would resurface in the structures of the historic walled city as well.

The haunted version of the walking tour can be taken at night and would include more eerie stories. Though ours was not a haunted tour, one of the friends in our group, a zombie trivia whiz, punctuated our tour guide’s talk track with pop culture references of scenes shot in New Orleans (think: Abraham Lincoln: Vampire Hunter).

Catch Some Beads Along Bourbon and Canal Streets

The shiny garlands are thrown by the handful from the parade floats. Even though the parade doesn’t come through Bourbon Street, Bourbon is where most of the nighttime partying happens. Most nights, we ended up along the bars here and caught beads thrown from the balconies (I assure you no chests were bared, though we still managed to leave with beads).

Try a Pillowy Beignet With Your Morning or Afternoon Coffee at Cafe Du Monde

Caked with powdered sugar, these doughy bites melt in your mouth. Beignets are a must when visiting New Orleans. Windows along the riverwalk side of the cafe offer a glimpse into the magic, as staff drop dollops of dough into fryers, pull them out to cool on racks and sprinkle the sweet, snowy dust over them.

Truth be told, I went to Cafe du Monde with high expectations given the long lines I saw trailing out the door. When I actually sat down to eat, I realized the menu truly is just coffee, hot chocolate, and beignets– so manage your expectations accordingly! The hot cocoa was a welcome treat though because the weather during the week of Mardi Gras in New Orleans was much chillier than I had anticipated, and I hadn’t packed enough warm clothing.

Catch a Live Jazz Show Along Frenchman’s Street

New Orleans is known as the birthplace of jazz, so it’s only appropriate to catch a live jazz show when you are in town. There are several establishments along Frenchman’s Street where you can do so. We visited Cafe Negril. On our last day in town, we also went to a dueling pianos show at Pat O’Brien’s Bar, which had an airy outdoor patio. It’s amazing the kind of repertoire these musicians have, versatile in their ability to play a multitude of genres, and play almost any song upon request.

Some people may find jazz unstructured or hard to follow, but it’s that untamed characteristic that speaks to its largely African-American roots and compels you to get up and dance. Improvisation is welcomed as an expression of individuality, and one must recognize the mastery of traditional chord progressions and musical structures that is required for a jazz player to follow his intuition and create something new on the fly.

Imbibe the Local Concoctions

Hurricanes, “hand grenades” and faux absinthe are the typical drinks. Don’t be fooled by the sweetness of these cocktails: a few sips taken at every street corner you pass in the French Quarter can be potent.

Try Your Luck at Harrah’s Casino

Slots, blackjack and poker tables are staples at the casino, but you can also get into the Mardi Gras vibes at their masquerade nightclub.

Marvel at regional marine life at the Audubon Aquarium

We needed a break from the buzz of the Quarter, so we stopped into the Audubon Aquarium, which is known for special exhibits featuring marine life from the Gulf of Mexico, Caribbean Reef, and Mississippi River.

Fill up on French Food

Louisiana is home to Cajun and Creole food, which I find to be primarily a blend of seafood and soul food and West African spices, traditionally not very accommodating to a vegetarian diet. However, outside of junky bar fare and some very creamy pasta dishes, I was able to get more wholesome food at Pere Antoine’s Restaurant and satisfying veggie-filled crepes at Union Kitchen & Party Room (which seems to have closed since then).

Walk the riverfront at night

Steamboats gliding along the Mississippi River and the glittering Crescent City Connection bridge create a quintessential backdrop.

We went to New Orleans for a specific event and were still able to squeeze in some of the local flavors and sites. If visiting again, I would probably take a foodie tour focused on vegetarian-friendly Cajun and Creole cuisine, tour the Oak Alley Plantation, and walk through the St. Louis Cemetery. And I’ll certainly steer clear of any weekends in February when taking my kids.

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